This amazing article is from Science Daily – we have so many coyotes in our neighborhood in New Westminster I found this article very interesting.
Coyotes living in cities don’t ever stray from their mates, and stay with each other till death do them part, according to this new study:
The finding sheds light on why the North American cousin of the dog and wolf, which is originally native to deserts and plains, is thriving today in urban areas.
Scientists with Ohio State University who genetically sampled 236 coyotes in the Chicago area over a six-year period found no evidence of polygamy — of the animals having more than one mate — nor of one mate ever leaving another while the other was still alive.
This was even though the coyotes exist in high population densities and have plenty of food to eat, which are conditions that often lead other dog family members, such as some fox species, to stray from their normal monogamy.
To cat around, as it were.
“I was surprised we didn’t find any cheating going on,” said study co-author Stan Gehrt, a wildlife ecologist with Ohio State’s School of Environment and Natural Resources. “Even with all the opportunities for the coyotes to philander, they really don’t.
“In contrast to studies of other presumably monogamous species that were later found to be cheating, such as arctic foxes and mountain bluebirds, we found incredible loyalty to partners in the study population.”
The study appears in a recent issue of The Journal of Mammalogy.
The loyalty of coyotes to their mates may be a key to their success in urban areas, according to Gehrt.
Not only does a female coyote have the natural ability to produce large litters of young during times of abundance, such as when living in food-rich cities, she has a faithful partner to help raise them all.
“If the female were to try to raise those large litters by herself, she wouldn’t be able to do it,” said Gehrt, who holds appointments with the university’s Ohio Agricultural Research and Development Center and Ohio State University Extension. “But the male spends just as much time helping to raise those pups as the female does.”
Unlike the males of polygamous species, a male coyote “knows that every one of those pups is his offspring” and has a clear genetic stake in helping them survive, Gehrt said.
The research was done in Cook, Kane, DuPage and McHenry counties in northeast Illinois. All are in greater Chicago, which is home to about 9 million people and is the third-largest metropolitan area in the U.S.
It’s also home to an estimated 1,000 to 2,000 coyotes. Gehrt has previously said he “couldn’t find an area in Chicago where there weren’t coyotes.”
“You’ve got lots of coyotes in this landscape,” said senior author Cecilia Hennessy, who conducted the study as a master’s degree advisee of Gehrt and is now a doctoral student at Purdue University in Indiana. “You’ve got territories that abut each other. And coyotes can make long-distance forays. So you’d think, based on previous investigations of dog behavior, that cheating would be likely.
“But to find nothing, absolutely nothing, no evidence whatsoever of anything that wasn’t monogamy, I was very surprised by that,” she said.
The finding came through a wider study of Chicago-area coyotes that Gehrt has led since 2000. As the largest study ever on urban coyotes, it’s a long-term effort to understand the animals’ population ecology, how they adapt to urban life and how to reduce their conflicts with people.
“A powerful part of the new paper is that we have long-term field work, behavior observations, to accompany Cecilia’s genetic work,” Gehrt said. “So many genetic studies only analyze samples but know very little about their subjects, whereas we follow these individuals nearly every day and often to the completion of their lives. It’s a nice mesh of lab and field work.”
The scientists used live traps — either padded foothold traps or non-choking neck snares — to catch the coyotes for the study, although pups were simply dug from their dens and held by hand. Small blood and tissue samples were taken from all the animals. The adults, which were anesthetized, also were fitted with radio-collars for tracking their movements and ranges. Afterward, all the coyotes were released where they were caught.
Later, Hennessy, who previously was a plant genetics technician and biology major at the University of Cincinnati, used genetic techniques in the lab to test the animals’ DNA and determine their family trees.
Coyotes maintain monogamy through long-term pair bonding, a term meaning an animal stays with the same mate for more than one breeding season, and sometimes for many.
A male coyote, for his part, practices diligent mate guarding — keeping other males away from the female.
During estrus, which is the time when the female can become pregnant, the pair “will spend all their time together — running, finding food, marking their territory. They’ll always be right at each other’s side.”
“We’ve been able to follow some of these alpha pairs through time, and we’ve had some of them stay together for up to 10 years,” Gehrt said. “They separate only upon the death of one of the individuals, so they truly adhere to that philosophy, ‘Till death do us part,’ ” Hennessy said.
Funding was provided by the Cook County Animal and Rabies Control and by the Cook County Forest Preserve District, and by the Max McGraw Wildlife Foundation.
Source Science Daily
Whether you’re planning a move with your pet, planning a getaway to a pet friendly hotel, or just taking Spot or Fluffy with you to run errands around town, making sure they are properly secured in your vehicle is essential.
One of the best ways to ensure that your precious pet stays safe in your vehicle is to have him travel in a pet travel carrier… also known as travel kennel and crate. However, before you do, it’s important to know the right way to do this. You must be sure to properly familiarize your dog or cat with the carrier before you set out on your road trip. The time it takes to do this depends on your pet.
It’s best to start your dog or cat out at an early age. It generally takes longer for your pet to become comfortable in a travel carrier as they get older. The first step is to choose the proper carrier. When shopping for a travel carrier, be sure it has proper ventilation and sturdy construction. In addition, the carrier should have a secure latch so that your pet cannot escape. As far as size, the carrier should be large enough for your pet to stand up, turn around, and lie down comfortably. The price of a pet carrier varies depending upon the size, whether it’s hard sided or soft sided, and the brand. The starting price is generally around $20.
To familiarize your pet with the carrier, open the door of the carrier and place it in your home. Place your pet’s bedding, some favorite toys, and maybe some treats of his until your pet feels comfortable. Again, this may take a little time so be patient and don’t rush him.
When you are confident that your pet feels comfortable in the carrier, you can then place the carrier in the car. Start off by taking short rides and gradually build up to longer rides. Gauge the stress level of your pet and don’t push it. Short rides can be up and down the driveway if need be.
Ensure that your pet travel is safe. Pet travel carriers are a great option to ensure the well being of your pet when traveling by car. Just remember to start the familiarization process early if you have upcoming travel plans. Safe travels!
So – we just returned from a fabulous time on the Sunshine Coast of British Columbia. We rented a rustic cottage right on the ocean with a hot tub, bald eagles, hawks, seals, shells, starfish and more! It was delightful.
It was also a challenge with our 6 month old puppy Ava. She was so worked up by the sounds of the waves crashing, wind blowing in the cedar tree’s, starfish, ocean water etc that she was almost impossible to handle. Although we had a delightful time it really did bring up some concerns for us with Ava (who is a Golden Doodle) who was very nippy with the kids and jumpy.
I have done some poking around in Pet Place.com and found the following info helpful as a starting point for me – hope it helps you as well!
Rani & Ava
At about 5 to 6 months, if you have more than one pup, you may find that play becomes more aggressive and exhibits some nipping, growling, and other general displays of dominance. Many males, and some females, will begin humping each other at this stage as they rehearse for their adult roles. Such behavior is acceptable as long as it is not directed towards you.
Puppies can be taught to sit, lie down, wait, stay, leave it, and other such useful commands that will stay with them for the rest of their lives. Once these behaviors have been learned they should be reinforced periodically throughout life. This is the usual time for formal puppy training classes outside the home. Such classes are extremely helpful as long as they are conducted in a non-confrontational way.
The following list will help you know what to expect from your puppy has he develops.
Most 6-month-old puppies are approximately 75 % of their adult body weight. Most puppies will gain or grow each week until they attain their adult size which occurs between 9 and 16 months of age. However, there is a range of maturity between the different breeds. Small dogs mature faster and reach their adult size and body weight faster than large and giant breeds of dog.
Teething – By 6 months, the permanent canines erupt. Permanent premolars erupt at 4 to 6 months and the molars erupt at 5 to 7 months of age. Most breeds will show all their permanent teeth between the ages of 6 to 7 months of age. Although dogs this age have all their adult teeth and are not actively “teething”, chewing may peak at this stage. Make sure they have safe and approved chew toys. This is a great age to be on a regular tooth brushing schedule as these are the teeth they will have for the rest of their life so it is important to care for them properly.
- Senses – By 6 months of age, most dogs have a very keen sense of hearing, vision, taste and smell. At this age, dogs are learning to differentiate one dog (and human) smell from another.
- Ability to Hold Urine – 6-month-old puppies can generally hold their urine for about 7 hours. This means you will need to take them out at least every 7 hours if you expect them to not have an accident. They should be able to sleep through the night without having to go out.
- Intelligence – 6-month-old puppies are on beginning of their adolescence. They are smart, curious, strong, willful, and very playful. They also may take more risks by eating things that younger puppies may not. It is important to ensure that your puppy does not have exposure to trash cans, dirty clothes, and other objects he may want to eat.
- Agility – Most puppies that are 6 months old are becoming very strong and coordinated. They can generally romp, play, fetch, jump, and run with very good accuracy. This is a time they have lots of energy and some of the fetch type toys can be a good release.
- Sleep – Puppies that are 6 months old sleep approximately 16 to 18 hours per day.
- Puberty – Be aware that by the time most puppies are 6 to 8 months of age, puberty has set in and unplanned pregnancies are possible, so be ready to take precautions or consider spaying or neutering as soon as possible.
- Physical Appearance & Hair Coat- Your puppy will begin some changes from a puppy to an adult haircoat. Most puppies begin to shed some of their puppy coat. Get your dog used to being brushed as the shedding will get worse as they full loose their puppy coat. Your puppy will appear much more like an adult at this stage, starting to grow in height and length and fill out with developing muscle.
Tips on Best Ways to Raise Your 6-month-old Old Puppy
- Consider that crate training is for life
- Take him out at least every 7 hours
- Make sure he gets plenty of exercise!
- Brush and comb daily
- Brush teeth daily
- Feed twice a day
- Switch out safe chew toys
- Don’t let your puppy chew on anything he can swallow
- If he is at risk for heartworm disease, make sure he is on preventative!
- Get your puppy spayed or neutered
- Give positive reinforcement for work well done
It’s moving day for you and your pet! Your house is all packed up and you’re waiting for the movers to arrive. You’ve gone through your pre-moving day pet checklist…new pet ID tags – check, pet travel carrier – check, booked pet friendly hotels & accommodations – check, etc… Although pre-moving steps are essential to help ensure a stress free move for you and your pet, you’re not out of the woods yet!
Here are the top 5 moving day tips for pets:
1. Keep Your Pet Safe and Secure: This is equally important when moving out of your old home AND moving into your new home. With all the noise, open doors, and potential chaos involved in a physical move, it’s important to make sure your pet is safe, happy, and secure. Put your pet in a quiet and safe place. The place you select should be a place that they are familiar and comfortable with. This could be their travel crate (placed in an out of the way place) or perhaps a bathroom. You need to be sure that they aren’t able to escape during the move. If you place your pet in a room, be sure to put a sign on the door alerting others to not enter. Another great option is to have your pet stay at a friend or relatives house or their favorite doggy day care on moving day.
2. Check on them Regularly: If your pet is at home on moving day, be sure to check in on them regularly throughout the day. Maintain their regular routine for feeding, walks, bathroom breaks and loving.
3. Familiar Surroundings at New Home: One of the best ways to help your pet become comfortable more quickly in their new home is to have their “stuff” in it before you introduce your dog, cat, or other furry family member into your (their) new place. Whether it be their favorite chair, dog bed, throw rug, toys, or all of the above – surround your pet with familiar things. Be prepared with all the necessary items your pet will need from day one in your new home.
4. Keep Your Pets On-Leash: We’ve heard so many tragic stories of pets running off when moving to a new home. Pet parents need to be aware that even dogs that are excellent under voice control can become distracted very easily in a new neighborhood and surroundings. Please keep your pet leashed or secured in a fenced yard when not in the house – at least until they have proven to you that they are comfortable in their new environment.
5. Better Safe than Sorry: You hate to think of this, but in the unfortunate event that your pet runs off, have a recent photo of your pet on hand. In addition to your pet’s ID tag and microchip, a photo of your pet will also help to ensure a safe return home for your pet.
And don’t forget to have calm energy. Our pets pick up on our emotions…so deep breaths. Moving is an adventure, a new beginning – embrace it and enjoy it with your pet!
For more information, visit www.tripswithpetscom. TripsWithPets.com is the premier online guide for pet travel-offering resources to ensure pets are welcome, happy and safe when traveling. Visit www.tripswithpets.com to find a directory of pet friendly hotels and accommodations across the U.S. and Canada, airline policies, pet travel tips, pet travel supplies, along with other pet travel resources.
Guest Author – Sandy Moyer
The drab gray and brown of winter are gone, and we’re surrounded by the bright colors of springtime! Flowering trees are covered in pink and white blossoms. From forsythias and daffodils to azaleas and tulips, shrubs and flowerbeds are every color of the rainbow and lawns are turning green and beautiful again.
Everyone loves lush green lawns and Spring is the right time to apply lawn treatments …. fertilizers for healthy lawns and products to kill weeds and control crab grass. Unfortunately, the same products that produce healthy lawns can sometimes cause health problems for pets. Contact with herbicides can cause vomiting, excess salivation, problems with the central nervous system, and even sudden death.
By taking a few precautions, we can protect our pets and still have lush green lawns. Before applying lawn treatments or before treatment by a professional lawn service, remove any pet water and food dishes from the yard. Always keep your pets inside while chemicals are being applied and keep them off the treated grass for at least 24 hours after an application. If your dog manages to come in contact with a freshly treated lawn in spite of your best efforts, wash it’s paws with soap and water immediately. If you live in a neighborhood with adjoining yards, make sure your dog doesn’t wander onto a neighbor´s newly treated lawn.
- Tree Sprays, Garden Dusts, and Foggers
Spring is also the time to apply pesticides to gardens and trees. Chemical pesticides are applied as tree sprays, garden dusts, foggers, and in a variety of fruit and vegetable sprays. Keep pets away from the area under and around freshly sprayed trees for at least 24 hours. Keep them out of gardens and flower beds after applying pesticide sprays or dusts.
- Slug and Snail Killing Pellets
Never scatter slug and snail killer pellets in gardens or flower beds if you have pets of if neighborhood pets have access to your yard. Dogs find the small blue poisonous slug pellets tasty. Use a commercial bait trap or pellet holder that´s out of reach to pets instead.
Ingestion of mouse and rat poison is another danger. These poisons come in cardboard containers filled with poisonous pellets. Since dogs can obviously chew through the cardboard to get the tempting bait, their owners carefully place them in spots their dogs can’t reach.When rodents invade their homes to stay warm in fall, people put the little boxes underneath kitchen drawers and behind shelves in garages and sheds. When things are moved for Spring clean-up, the dog is right there to grab the forgotten poisonous traps. Most people realize how dangerous pest control poisons are to pets, but there may be things they DON´T know that could save their dogs’ lives. Rodent poisons may not cause vomiting or other typical symptoms of poisoning. They contain a compound that causes a life-threatening bleeding disorder. Read this article from someone who had a terrible experience with her dog being poisoned.
- Cocoa Mulch
The danger of poisoning from Theobromine, the ingredient in chocolate that is toxcic to dogs, does not end with the chocolate candy or the baking chocolate inside your home. Pet owners should never use cocoa bean mulch in their flower beds or as garden fertilizer. “Cocoa Mulch”, made from cocoa bean shells, contains potentially toxic quantities of Theobromine. Even if your dog has absolutely no interest in other types of garden mulch, cocoa mulch smells like chocolate and that smell attracts dogs. Dogs have died from eating cocoa mulch!
According to the ASPCA…. “Eaten by a 50-pound dog, about 2 ounces of cocoa bean mulch may cause gastrointestinal upset; about 4.5 ounces, increased heart rate; about 5.3 ounces, seizures; and over 9 ounces, death.” For more information, see ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center Issues Cocoa Bean Fertilizer Warning
- Chemicals in Pressure Treated Decks
Don´t let your dog lie directly on a wood deck that has not been sealed. Most wood decks are built from lumber that´s been pressure treated and preserved with toxic chemicals. Sealants should be applied every 2 years. Since toxic chemicals from treated wood can leach into the soil, never let pets crawl underneath a deck to sleep or play.
- Stinging Insects
Some dogs will try to catch bees and others might even swat at them. When a dog gets stung, its usually around the mouth, on the nose or on a front paw. Signs of a sting are – scratching it’s head, rubbing it on the ground, bumps or a swelling around the head, face, mouth, tongue, or paws, excessive salivation, or finding a stinger. If you can see the stinger, carefully remove it with a tweezers, then apply a cold compress to the site. If possible, apply a paste made from a mixture of baking soda and water. Some dogs, like some humans, can be allergic to stings. If your dog has a severe reaction, get veterinary treatment immediately.
Do you need a new supply of heartworm preventative? Heartworms can cause severe heart and lung damage. Dogs get heartworm disease from mosquitoes. Fortunately there is medication to prevent it, but a dog must tested before starting it. Giving a preventative to a dog who already has the disease can be fatal. Early spring, before warm weather and mosquito season, is the time to have a heartworm test done. Only a veterinarian can dispense the medication. Even if your dog has been taking a heartworm preventative all year long, your veterinarian might still recommend periodic testing.
- Fleas and Ticks
When outdoor temperatures reach 40 degrees, ticks become active and feed. They thrive in warm weather. Apply topical, spot-on products once a month, or as recommended by the manufacturer, for protection from fleas and disease spreading ticks. Use flea and tick protection year round in warm climates and begin use of these products in early spring in seasonal climates. In the U.S., April to November are high risk months for Lyme Disease, which has now been found in nearly every state. If you live in a state where there is a high risk, or if you will be vacationing with your dog in a high risk area, (See Map), your dog should have a Lyme disease vaccination. The first two doses of Lyme disease vaccine are given at 3 week intervals, followed by annual boosters.Never use multiple types of flea and tick repellents on a dog at the same time. A mixture of different chemicals can make a dog very sick.For more information about flea and tick protection, see Fall Fleas and Tick Tips.
- Keep your dog safe and sound this Spring -
- If you think your dog might have ingested a chemical poison, you must act fast to stop the poison from being absorbed into his system. Call your veterinarian or poison control center with the container at hand, if possible, to identify the chemical and the amount ingested. Keep syrup of ipecac and/or hydrogen peroxide on hand, but do not use it without instructions from your veterinarian or the poison control center. For lots more information, see my Household Poisons Help Sheet.
- In an animal poisoning emergency, call the ASPCA’s Animal Poison Control Center, at 888-426-4435, 24 hours a day and 365 days a year. There is a $45 per case fee, payable by credit card. This fee includes as many follow-up calls as necessary in critical cases, and, on request, they will contact your veterinarian. To order a free Animal Poison Control Center magnet with their emergency phone number and website address, Click Here.
- Securely tighten lids on bottles of herbicides and pesticides after use. Place bags or boxes, both new and used, inside cans or plastic storage containers. Properly dispose of empty containers where there´s no chance a pet can get to them.
- See your veterinarian for regular annual check-ups and heartworm preventatives. Make sure rabies, distemper and other vet recommended vaccines are up-to-date. If you’re planning a vacation with your dog, ask about additional vaccines that may be recommended for pets in areas you will be traveling to.
- Use an effective flea and tick preventative at recommended intervals.
- See The Flea & Tick Solution Center at 1-800-PetMeds for information on flea preventatives, flea and tick relief, and how to get rid of fleas and ticks inside and outside your home.
If you’re planning a move with your pet, it’s important to do some homework and be prepared. Moving has the potential to create a lot of anxiety for pets…particularly for older pets, most cats, and skittish pets. Pre-move preparation is the key to helping ensure your move goes as smoothly as possible for your pet and you.
Here are the top 10 pre-moving day tips for pets:
1. Pet Laws and Regulations: Become familiar with the state/province leash laws, pet ordinances, and pet licensing requirements. For state/province laws, contact the State Department of Agriculture or State Veterinarian’s office. For local ordinances, contact the City Clerks’ office, local humane organization, or animal control facility in the area in which you’ll be relocating. If you are planning to rent a house or apartment, be sure to carefully review the lease to ensure that pets are allowed before you move in.
2. A Trip to Your Pet’s Vet: It’s important to be sure that your pet is up to date on all vaccinations and has a thorough check-up before you move. Get a copy of all your pet’s medical records (as their new vet will need them), as well as a health certificate. If your pet is on any medication, make sure you get it refilled. If your pet is not a good traveler, discuss this with your vet. If after trying behavior modification training to no avail, your vet may recommend some medications or natural calming supplements to helps ease your pet’s travel anxiety.
3. Secure a New Vet: Be sure to have a new veterinarian lined up before you move. Ask your current vet for a referral or research online for new veterinarian.
4. New Identification Tag: Get a new pet ID tag that includes your pet’s name, your name, new address and telephone number.
5. Routine, Routine Routine: Pets are creatures of habit and love routine. Do your best to not throw off their routine by gradually packing over a period of time. The less commotion and more normalcy, the better!
6. Secure Your Pet in Car: Have a plan for how you’re going to properly secure your pet in your vehicle. This is a crucial element of pet travel that is not taken seriously enough. The reality is that hundreds of pets are injured or even killed each year because they are allowed free reign in cars, trucks, RVs, and SUVs. Even more real is the toll in human life and property damage caused when an “enthusiastic” animal distracts a driver, leading to an accident. Vehicle pet barriers, pet seat belts, pet car seats, and pet travel crates are all excellent ways to keep your pet (and you) safe when traveling in your vehicle. It’s important to familiarize your pet with the vehicle restraint of choice weeks or months before traveling so that they are comfortable.
7. Secure Pet Friendly Accommodations in Advance: If your move is such that you’ll need to make overnight stops along the way, be sure to secure these accommodations before you hit the road. Pet policies do change some times without notice and accommodations may be limited so it’s recommended that you book pet friendly hotels in advance.
8. Plan Ahead for Air Travel: Check with your veterinarian and the airline if your pet will be flying. The airline will require a health certificate issued by your vet. You’ll also want to purchase an appropriate airline approved pet carrier. Be sure you take the time to familiarize your pet with it at least one
month prior to travel.
9. Calm Energy: Even though moving is typically a crazy and hectic time for you, it’s important to keep yourself as calm and relaxed as possible. We all know that our pets sense our energy and when we’re amped up, they get stress. So, whatever works for you to keep your sense of calm, do it!
10. Tell Your Pet: This may seem out there to some, BUT, have a talk with your pet letting them know about the move. Let them know what to expect on moving day, about the new house, the yard, etc… If nothing else, it will make you feel better, which in turn will help your pet.
Moving to a new home with your pet doesn’t have to be stressful if you are prepared and plan ahead!
For more information, visit www.tripswithpetscom. TripsWithPets.com is the premier online guide for pet travel-offering resources to ensure pets are welcome, happy and safe when traveling. Visit www.tripswithpets.com to find a directory of pet friendly hotels & accommodations across the U.S. and Canada, airline policies, pet travel tips, pet travel supplies, along with other pet travel resources.
Yes – that is right – there is now an official channel for dogs to watch TV….
Our puppy Ava seems fascinated by the TV and sometimes watches. She gets really into it when there is an animal program, so perhaps there is something to it.
I personally am on the fence since we do not watch that much TV as it is and prefer to spend our time in the forest or doingother activitives – that is what a PVR is for after all ;] Besides why would we have a dog if we wanted to watch TV? Dogs are meant to be out exploring the world and teaching us to be kinder.
Anyways – here is the link to the new channel – check it out and let us know your views on having your pooch watch some doggie TV!
Rani and Ava
The First Television Channel for dogs
Scientifically developed. Pup approved. DOGTV is cable’s first network created exclusively for canines, and the humans who love them.
DOGTV’s 24/7 programing helps stimulate, entertain, relax and habituate dogs with shows that expose them to various movements, sounds, objects, experiences and behavior patterns, all from a dog’s point of view.
DOGTV is a 24/7 digital TV channel with programing scientifically developed to provide the right company for dogs when left alone. Through years of research with some of the world’s top pet experts, special content was created to meet specific attributes of a dog’s sense of vision and hearing and supports their natural behavior patterns. The result: a confident, happy dog, who’s less likely to develop stress, separation anxiety or other related problems.
DOGTV is recognized by the Humane Society of the United States (HSUS), and uses concepts widely supported by leading organizations including The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA) and the American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA) as a valuable product that contributes to the enrichment and quality of dogs’ lives.
This has become an issue for our family with our new puppy Ava. She is great on leash when there is no stimuli, children, animals etc around – pretty impossible conditions! Once you add in the ‘real world’ she turns into a blury ball of insane energy – she pulls, tugs, does not listen, grabs her leash in her mouth, pulls, growls, etc.
Does this sound familiar? If so read on – these are three simple tips to begin helping you. Also, call a certified professional trainer to continue helping you before your puppy gets to old or large to handle.
Rani and Ava
Dog leash aggression can be a big problem when it comes to walking your puppy or dog. From German Shepherds to Shi-Tzu’s, it doesn’t matter what size or breed, it’s a must to understand these 3 secret tips that will save your puppy.
Dog owners get highly stressed, when their dogs go out of control when walking them on a leash. A dog’s reaction to other dogs from barking to growling can be a nightmare and there are reasons why this has happened.
Signs of Dog Leash Aggression
Your pup can react violently in a moment’s notice when walking in a park and he spots another dog. He starts pulling on the leash and begins barking as you get closer in sight to other dogs, then he may get worse. These are the progressive signs of aggression below:
- Barking and growling at other dogs from a distance.
- Lunging on the leash and going wild, as if he wants to pull away from you.
- He becomes disobedient and does not quiet down or listen to you.
Reasons Your Dog Reacts Violently
1. Dogs are social creatures, like people, they like to meet other dogs. Once on a leash they are restricted and they become frustrated.
2. As a dog owner, you become nervous, tense and your dog senses your reaction and becomes frustrated. He may react with more intensity and violence because he sees that you are nervous and he responds back with a fight or flight reaction.
3. He may begin lunging, fighting, barking and pulling more on the leash because you are now trying to resolve this problem by either yelling or pulling back on his leash.
The behavior of dog leash aggression will continue and worsen unless you control and train your dog properly.
3 Secret Tips to Dog Leash Aggression
These tips will save your puppy from dog aggression and bad behavior.
1. Socialization – your dog may not be socialized enough. This bad behavior may be a reaction of lack of socialization with other dogs. He may be scared or fearful or want to assert himself to other dogs. He will need to learn socialization techniques slowly, such as desensitization.
2. Obedience – you are part of his pack, but you are the leader, you must prove to him that you can lead him and remain calm. He will always react badly if you are nervous or mad and begin to yell at him.
3. Timing and Avoidance – this means you need to teach your dog how to avoid other dogs from a distance, to maintain his ground without getting excited. As a dog owner, you will need to teach him the proper timing with sit stay commands.
What if I told you these secret tips and techniques will resolve dog leash aggression
Your dog, whether a puppy or older dog can overcome this bad behavior, but you have to try the techniques to get results. To learn more about these Secret Tips and get bonus information, visit http://www.squidoo.com/Stopping_Aggressive_Dog_behavior
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Trevor_F
When You Get There
Keep the following recommendations in mind to minimize your risks and maximize your fun:
- Before you enter the park, check out the crowd for a few minutes. Do the dogs seem to be romping happily? If so, let the fun begin! If, on the other hand, you notice canine troublemakers bullying or fighting with other dogs-or if you simply feel uneasy about letting your dog play with a particular group of dogs-plan to come back at a later time.
- When a new dog arrives at a dog park, the other dogs often rush over to investigate. This sudden flood of attention can overwhelm newcomers. To avoid a canine mob scene, linger outside the park for a few minutes and let other dogs notice your dog’s presence outside the park’s enclosure. When their excitement about her arrival dissipates, you can enter the park together. After your dog has played a while and become part of the group inside the park, don’t let her become a mob member. Instead, call her to you when you notice newcomers arriving.
- Keep your attention on your dog and her playmates so that you’re aware of what she’s doing at all times. If you see signs that play’s not going well, you can step in to stop interaction before things get out of hand. (Please see Interpreting Dog Play and Interaction, below, to learn about these signs.)
- Avoid canine clumping. When a pair or group of dogs plays nonstop for more than a few minutes, playmates can get overexcited and tension can arise. Instead of standing in one spot during your entire visit, move to a new area of the park every few minutes. Encourage your dog to follow you when you walk to a new spot. Praise and reward her for keeping track of where you are and for coming when you call.
- If at any point you think your dog might not be having fun, take her home. If she’s interacting with another dog, don’t hesitate to ask that dog’s pet parent to help you end the play session. It’s better to call it quits early so your dog still has a good experience overall. You don’t want her to decide that she doesn’t enjoy playing with other dogs anymore.
Interpreting Dog Play and Interaction
While you’re at the dog park with your dog, it’s important to closely monitor interaction between playmates. But interpretation can be difficult sometimes. What do dogs look like when they’re friendly with each other? How about when they don’t feel so friendly? What constitutes polite play between dogs? How can you tell when playmates aren’t getting along, and how do you know when it’s time to intervene? The information below should help you interpret and evaluate dog play. For illustrations and more information about how dogs communicate, please see our article, Canine Body Language.
What Good Play Looks Like
When dogs play, they often play-bow, paw at each other and bounce around like puppies. Their bodies look relaxed, rather than stiff, and they might make “play faces”-they hold their mouths open and look like they’re smiling. During play, the dogs might growl playfully and open their mouths wide, exposing their teeth and pretending to be ferocious. They might switch roles so that one dog’s sometimes on top when wrestling and sometimes on her back, sometimes chasing and sometimes being chased, sometimes pouncing and sometimes getting pounced on. The dogs might also frequently switch games, alternating between stalking and chasing each other, wrestling and rolling around on the ground, mouthing on each other, playing with toys, and taking breaks to drink water or sniff around. As the dogs run and wrestle, you might notice them pausing or freezing frequently for just a second or two before launching back into the game. These little pauses and breaks in play help ensure that play doesn’t get out of hand.
Signs of Trouble
If possible, watch for warning signs and step in before a fight happens. Your first clue that things aren’t going well during play might be the absence of all the signs of polite play described above. Instead of those signs, you might notice the dogs’ bodies becoming stiffer and more tense. Their movements might seem faster and less bouncy. Play might become louder and build in intensity, without any breaks or pauses. If you see any of these signs, it’s time to separate the playmates. You should also interrupt play if you see a dog who’s pursuing and playing too roughly with a playmate who’s trying to get away, or who’s repeatedly knocking down or standing over another dog. Intervene immediately if a number of dogs start to chase a single dog-especially if that dog is small.
Damage Control: If There’s a Fight
Sometimes, despite your best efforts to monitor playtime, dogs get into fights. These scuffles often look and sound ferocious. The dogs might growl fiercely, snarl at each other, bark, snap and show their teeth. However, most dog fights don’t result in injury to either dog. They’re usually the equivalent of getting into a brief, heated argument with a friend or family member. Even so, if a fight lasts more than a few seconds, the dogs’ pet parents should separate them. Doing this can be dangerous. If you grab a dog who’s in the middle of fighting with another dog, she might startle and reflexively whip around to bite you. To reduce the likelihood of injury to all parties, follow these guidelines:
- Prevent fights from happening in the first place by actively watching dogs during play. If you think things are starting to look a little tense, end play for a while by calling your dog to come to you. (Please see our article, Teaching Your Dog to Come When Called.)
- Have a plan and don’t panic. Remember that most dog fights are noisy but harmless. If you stay calm, you’ll be able to separate two fighting dogs more safely and efficiently.
- Before you try physically separating two fighting dogs, make lots of noise. Clap and yell. Consider carrying a mini-air horn or two metal pie pans to bang together. A sudden loud sound will often interrupt a fight.
- If there’s a hose handy, you can try spraying the dogs with water.
- If you’ve tried briefly (3 seconds or so) making noise but the dogs are still fighting, you and the other dog’s pet parent should approach the dogs together. Separate them at the same time. Both of you should take hold of your dogs’ back legs at the very top just under the hips, right where the legs connect to the body. (Avoid grabbing the dogs lower on their legs, like by their knees, ankles or paws. Doing so could cause them serious injury.) Like you’d lift a wheelbarrow, lift your dog’s back end under his hips so that his back legs come off of the ground, and move backwards away from the other dog. As soon as you can, turn your dog away from the other dog.
- DO NOT grab your dog by the collar. It seems like the natural thing to do, but it might startle your dog and cause her to turn and bite you. This kind of bite is like a reflex that’s done without thinking. Many pet parents get bitten this way-even when their dogs haven’t shown any signs of aggression in the past.
- After a fight stops, put both dogs on leashes and end the play session. Avoid giving the dogs another chance to fight. If the dog park is large enough, you can walk your dog to another area, far away from the dog she squabbled with. After she’s calmed down and relaxed again, try letting her off leash again to play with other dogs. If the park’s not that big, just call it quits for the day.
Before You Go
Choosing a Park
There are all kinds of dog parks. Some are situated in open areas, some include walking trails through the woods, and some are located at beaches or near lakes. Some are enclosed by fences and others aren’t. Some parks are formal-recognized by a city or county, with rules created and enforced by a board or committee. Others are just areas where people gather informally to let their dogs play.
Ideal Dog Park Features
Though they vary in design and terrain, the best dog parks should have a few ideal features:
- Enough space for normal interaction The area should be big enough for dogs to run around and space themselves out. If there’s not enough square footage available, a park can easily get crowded. Crowding can lead to tension among dogs and, as a result, fights can erupt.
- Secure fencing and gates Even if your dog reliably comes when called, it’s safest to take her to a securely enclosed area to play off leash. Before you let your dog run free at a dog park, make sure that fencing is sturdy and free of holes. It’s also best if the park enclosure incorporates double gates or an interior “holding pen” at the entrance, so people and their dogs can enter and exit without accidentally letting other dogs slip out of the park.
- Clean-up stations A dog park should have trash cans and bags available for people to clean up after their dogs.
- Water and shelter Especially in warmer climates, exercising dogs should have access to both drinking water and shade.
- A separate area for small dogs Small dogs need exercise and play time too, but they can sometimes get injured or frightened by larger dogs. Many dog parks designate separate areas for smaller or younger dogs so that they can play safely.
Preview the Park and Prepare
Go Alone and Observe
It’s important to visit the dog park a few times without your dog, just to check it out in advance.
- Note the park features. Are you comfortable with them? Do they meet your needs? Also read any posted rules and make sure you agree with them. Can you bring treats and toys with you? Does your dog need a special license? Do you need to pay a fee to use the dog park?
- Go to the park at different times, on different days. Note the best days and times of day to visit. If the park’s always packed on weekend mornings or weekdays after work, for example, you can take your dog at off-peak hours instead.
- Observe the park-goers. Are people actively supervising their dogs or are they letting them run amok while they chat and sip lattés? Does anyone in particular seem to have trouble effectively controlling his or her dog? Are there specific dogs who consistently play too roughly or fight with other dogs? If you identify people or dogs who seem to cause problems, you can avoid visiting the park when they’re around.
Prepare in Advance
- Think about what you’ll need to bring. Find some comfortable clothes and shoes to wear. Put together a dog-park kit that includes essentials, like a leash, water for you and your dog, bags for clean-up, toys and treats.
- Teaching your dog a few key skills helps keep her safe and contributes to a more enjoyable dog-park experience for all park users. One essential skill is a reliable recall. Please see our article, Teaching Your Dog to Come When Called. Sit, down, stay, drop it, leave it and settle are also very useful. For general information about dog training, please see Training Your Dog. Don’t hesitate to contact a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT) for group or private classes in dog training. Please see our article, Finding Professional Help, to locate a CPDT in your area.
- It will help to train yourself, too. Learning about canine body language and communication will help you interpret what’s going on during play and prevent conflict before it escalates to a fight. Please see our article, Canine Body Language, for illustrations and information about how dogs communicate.